Industry News: This case with unsaturated resin dressing up the computer case is made of 6 layers of British mud (a kind of oil mud) by the main part and skull, and it is hand-made by silicone and gypsum. Finally, the unsaturated resin is poured into the mold. The technical characteristics of the whole work are: manual cutting, opening, grinding, painting; the interior of the chassis uses UV cold lamps to reflect the lighting effect; the use of sculpture uses the combination of relief and round carving; the switch and restart button also use the sculpture The method of making, and the original indicator light is merged into the switch; the top and front of the chassis are installed with a 12CM fan (air inlet), the transparent side plate is made of plexiglass and the irregular air vent is cut, and an 8CM fan is installed ( Inlet), one 8CM fan (outlet) is installed at the rear of the chassis, which is used as the air inlet for the upper, front, and side air inlets and the rear air outlet. In addition, the side panel fans supply air directly to the North Bridge and the graphics card. The first step in the work is to make a mud draft. First, use plastic wrap to attach to the case, and then use sludge (the sludge hardness is divided into three types: soft, medium, and hard) to make the desired relief shape on the case. The second step is to remake the female mold-first, the silicone mold, that is, to remove the mud draft slice (retain a flat surface), and then evenly apply 3 to 4 layers (make it have a certain thickness) with silicone, silicone and silicone curing agent The mixing ratio is 100:2, each layer of silicone needs to be completely dried before brushing the next layer of silicone, and a layer of bean wrap is also placed between the third layer and the fourth layer (to strengthen the mold).
Next is the gypsum auxiliary mold. Its function is to use the dried gypsum to wrap the silicone mold to avoid deformation. In this link, a pouring box is used to make a pouring box (fixed with a pin, and then fully sealed with tape except for the upper mouth). Place the silicone mold in it (the edge of the box is more than 2 cm higher than the object being turned over, and the surface of the silicone mold is facing down). At the end of the gypsum auxiliary mold, pour gypsum in the casting box to ensure a smooth surface (medical gypsum is best, fast drying, high strength), wait for the gypsum to dry, turn the casting box upside down, take out the gypsum mold, take out the silicone mold, And remove the original mud draft, and finally take the silicone mold from which the original mud draft was taken out and put it back into the groove of the plaster mold-the female mold is finished! The third step is to remake the male mold. At this time, the prepared unsaturated resin is injected into the silicone mold for removing the mud draft. The resin needs to be mixed with the curing agent and the catalyst. The ratio is 100:2:2, waiting for the unsaturated resin to solidify After cooling, take out one by one from the mold-the male mold is completed! The fourth step: cutting the case and plexiglass. The blue part is cut manually using a corneal machine, and the red part is cut manually using sheet metal scissors. Step 5: Splice the relief with the chassis, install all the reworked resin relief components in sequence, punch holes in the chassis, and punch holes in the resin relief (the depth of the holes depends on the length of the self-tapping screws). link.